Runway: Stunning Models
LONDON — Soft, lacey pastel confections at Burberry Prorsum, wacky florals at Christopher Kane, sparkly party dresses at Tom Ford: London Fashion Week was in full swing Monday, with a huge diversity of new spring looks from a parade of big names all jostling for buyers’ attention.
Luxury British label Burberry packed in the biggest crowds with its runway show, which featured a collection of ultra-feminine pastel outfits, sheer pencil dresses and light cashmere coats. Designer Christopher Bailey said it was all about romance and softness — and as if the floral details and lace prettiness weren’t enough, he drove the point home by closing his show with a shower of pale rose petals.
“I wanted everything to feel like you are being enveloped in fabric. I wanted people to feel warmed by it,” Bailey said after the show.
If that’s not your cup of tea, there were plenty of other inspirations for next season’s wardrobe on show Monday. Tom Ford, for example, went in the opposite direction, showcasing a catwalk of leather biker jackets, glamorous black double-breasted trouser suits and slinky little dresses for partying the night away. The American designer said the collection, which also included some ultra-sparkly catsuits, had a powerful and strong woman in mind.
“There’s nothing stronger in our culture than a beautiful woman who’s also physically strong,” Ford said.
Day 4 of the 5-day style event is traditionally reserved for London’s blockbuster shows, and a host of celebrities joined the fashion crowd on the front row. Colin Firth and Cate Blanchett were spotted at Ford, while Naomie Harris, Sienna Miller and One Direction’s Harry Styles turned up at Burberry. Other hot tickets Monday included Kane’s, which featured florals — but not as you know it. Kane, one of the most influential among London’s younger generation of designers, showcased prints of flowers dissected, complete with the biological names of the plant’s parts.
Monochrome reigned at Erdem, which created a poetic and haunting mood with wispy layers of sheer tulle and organza. Those who prefer color in their spring and summer wardrobes need not worry, though: Roksanda Ilincic was among designers who worked with vibrant tones, with color blocks from sunshine yellow to neon green. London Fashion Week winds down with its last shows Tuesday, when models, buyers and editors pack up and leave for more runway previews in Milan and Paris.
Romance was in the air at Burberry, which showcased a collection of feminine lace dresses, soft cashmere cardigans and organza shirts in pastel shades of rose, mint, lavender and cornflower blue.
The color palette and textures may be sweet and dreamy, but there was also a sassiness and a sexiness to the designs. Some models wore nothing but loose unlined wool coats in simple clean shapes, while others sported head-to-toe see-through lace outfits and barely-there floral print skirts. Outerwear is Burberry’s strong point and although there were none of its signature trench coats in sight, the collection featured plenty of light cashmere and wool coats in a loose and relaxed cut.